Rediscovering Tanuki Raw at NDC through Creative new Blue Burger
Tanuki Raw is a name that probably draws out many memories for anyone who was a student in the 2010s. We’re talking about a brand that used to be synonymous with affordable Japanese rice bowls in Singapore, after all.
Walking into Tanuki Raw’s NDC compound was truly a nostalgic experience, even if it’s dramatically transformed since my last visit which was seemingly epochs ago.
There is now a retail-shop-shaped hole as housemates Kapok has since shuttered and pulled out of Singapore a few years back and they’d since absorbed the whole space.
This homecoming does feel apt with my age. The vibrant, rowdy cafe space of Tanuki Raw has received a taming touch, now looking more mature, more stripped-down.
The biggest adjustment is not inherently in the look but actually in the outlook. As fondly remembered as the halcyon chillout days of the NDC cafe were, they’ve now focused on refining the kitchen and put more emphasis on experimenting here.
Even if most familiar with the Tanuki Raw brand wouldn’t expect a departure from their winning formula, chef-owner Howard isn’t a milquetoast cafe owner who would shy away from the challenge.
Right here, is where he plans to put some whimsical spins on food — with the first being a unique burger rendition slated for September release, only available with a 10-day pre-order.
Change of Scenery
At the heart of my visit to this newer, bolder Tanuki Raw NDC outfit is an enthralling R&D project, a burger that showcases a beef tartare patty as an apt embodiment of their creative quirks.
An unsuspecting person might look at the Blue Burger (a $45 set that comes with mentaiko cheese waffles fries) and remark “it’s rawwwww” while channelling the fury of a discount Gordon Ramsay. That’s by design — its patty is only given a thin, delicate sear on its surface after a brief sojourn on the grill.
The result is quite intriguing. While tweaks are to be expected before launch, the tartare patty —despite the inherent cognitive dissonance of a cold burger— was not badly done at all. That’s partly due to the seasoning which imbued distinctly Japanese umami to the luscious beef.
Tanuki Raw’s sense of balance was surprisingly on point too as a motley of pickled onions and a slather of astoundingly well-ratioed mustard ran counterpoint to the meat of the dish, giving it the perfect acidic contrast.
While not spectacular, the homemade buns were also decently airy supports to the tartare but the Emmental cheese felt out of place, only injecting the mellowest touch of nuttiness that added astringency if anything.
It’s not quite a home run and a burger like this isn’t for everyone —perhaps even Tanuki’s usual student clientele— but it’s interesting to see an iconic brand like this steer towards more bold ideas.
Naturally, you don’t leave Tanuki Raw without the tried-and-tested Japanese bowls but instead of the usual rice bowls, the ocean catch is perched atop a pool of yuzu broth, filled with silky strands of Udon.
Here’s the clincher — the Chirashi Yuzu Udon was unabashedly spirited and rich with citric sweetness and zest but also unexpectedly complex as the moderated sizzle of spicy tuna and wasabi entered the fray. Perhaps my favourite way to enjoy their sashimi offerings now.
As a side, we were greeted by another familiar sight at all the different Tanuki Raw outlets over the years — Uncle Hiro’s Chicken.
There’s not much finesse or elevation to this — and it’s a straightforward classic that doesn’t require it While still as juicy as ever, the seasoning was a bit heavy-handed this time around — less salt, please.
Truth be told, I wasn’t expecting myself to be enjoying my reunion with Tanuki Raw this much but the creativeness of the Blue Burger eased me in. Tanuki Raw isn’t perfect and nostalgic fondness sometimes fades as we grow up but there will always be a tender spot in my heart for them. Undoubtedly a pleasant and long-overdue revisit.
Make your reservations and pre-orders here.
Tanuki Raw @ National Design Centre
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- Address: 111 Middle Rd, #01-05, Singapore 188969
- Hours: 11am–9pm (Mon–Sun)
*This was an invited tasting.