Go Rogue or Go Broke: Bangin’ Sandos & industrial moods at 46 Mittsu’s sleek new Clarke Quay cafe
Go Rogue or go broke — that looks to be what the 46 Mittsu boys are gunning for with the unveiling of their ambitious newest concept, a sleek industrial chic outfit ensconced within one of Clarke Quay’s vintage shop houses.
When news came about that Go Rogue was set for a soft-launch test run, it was inevitable that a pilgrimage to the Clarke Quay cafe was on the cards.
Me and 46 Mittsu go way back — periodic visits to indulge in their sandos have been ongoing since its original incarnation, a nondescript little kiosk in a mixed F&B congregation at Kim Yam Road, near Robertson Quay.
Maybe the name “Go Rogue” is apt in a space characterised by a more rebellious bad-boy edge, as the laidback, personable warmth of their iconic Everton Park hideout is replaced with razor-sharp industrial minimalism.
Forgoing the quaint wooden trimmings and pops of colour, the Clarke Quay cafe is dominated by a melange of sleek burnished steel surfaces and rugged, rough-hewn grey concrete.
A compelling new direction that feels more modern and leans toward the aura of a mature but playful full-service restaurant.
And all signs point towards that more ambitious new direction — instead of the usual day-time offerings, Go Rogue has also teased a dinner menu that flirts with the idea of smoke-inundated flavours.
Alas, that’s not quite firmed up yet. Current plans designate signature sandos as the priority as the cafe readies its space for official launch on 6th May, whilst the team focuses on refining the nocturnal menu and operations.
No Rogue Flavours
Of course, with the new space, there were rumours of returning flavours. One monopolised my fantasies: A signature beef brisket, transformed into a haunting craving since smoking was untenable at their former venue.
As the powers that be do decree, all that bovine goodness is reintroduced, as folds of succulent 48-hour beef brisket are crammed into one hearty Cow Me In ($18) sandwich.
For this, Go Rogue surrounds the protagonist with a sunny-side-up for extra silky richness, jalapenos for complimentary heat, and a radicchio spinach salad to provide bouts of twang and acidity to serrate through the heavyweight beef.
It’s like a lovers’ reunion with it being as fabulously sapid as it could. But maybe there were slight teething blues as the mouthfeel lost a notch of juiciness, though not an egregious flaw.
Reunions aside, there was still space in my heart for another, the perennial crowd-pleasing BEC ($14) which takes its rightful place on Go Rogue’s debut menu, bringing the most efficacious blend of breakfast warmth.
It throws together sapid thick-cut bacon, velvety scrambled eggs, sloppy melted cheese, and a wonderfully piquant herb-laden mayo to the most comforting effect — textures and flavours all gratifying as hell.
Finishing off the Go Rogue menu —sans the signature sandos— are two rice bowls, something that 46 Mittsu has experimented with from time to time.
Opting to balance out all that intense heartiness, the veggies-only Go Farm ($12) was surprisingly wonderful, despite the healthier components.
As most could predict, this bowl is nothing flashy but the ensemble of baby carrots, corn, maitake mushroom, avocado and egg are well-executed and, more importantly, had great chemistry with the fluffy calrose rice base.
Not too moist or dry, with a delicately sweet and aromatic profile? Well, one could predict rice to be this good.
At least to my biased palate, this soft launch was more than promising. For a vicinage with only a few stand-out cafes, Go Rogue already has ample quality to fight with the stalwarts of Clarke Quay and Boat Quay.
The verdict is still out as the night menu receives its finishing touches but, as someone who has seen the team grow over the years, it’s great to see the 46 Mittsu boys flourishing.
Go Rogue
- Address: 20 North Canal Road, Singapore 048832
- Hours: TBA